Discover a Soviet-Car Museum Hiding in a Bulgarian Mall

Whether one is passionate about cars, birds, architecture, or 17th-century poetry, there often seems to be little reason to visit a mall while traveling in a foreign land. Generally, a mall stands as a multi-story testament to globalization, where authenticity, true cultural immersion, and adventure seem to be absent. Spoiler alert: The stores found in malls in Abu Dhabi, Salt Lake City, Shanghai, and Rome are remarkably similar.

A Surprising Discovery

Last month, I found myself standing in front of a towering map of a giant mall in Varna, Bulgaria, accompanied by friends and fellow journalists Andrew Ganz and Murilee Martin. We weren't there to search for the latest fashion trends; our interest lay in visiting the Retro Museum. After parking our rented Renault Mégane next to a tattered Mercedes-Benz W124 and taking the escalator to the first floor, we were greeted by holiday decorations typical of a posh neighborhood in the Midwest. Christmas music filled the air as shoppers moved from store to store like robotic ants. Doubts began to creep in - were we in the right place? But then we saw the big "Ретро Музей" ("Retro Museum") sign.After paying 15 Lev (about ) to enter, Murilee, Andrew, and I unexpectedly stepped into one of the most remarkable museums dedicated to cars built by the Soviet Union and its satellites. The contrast was immediate. Just a few minutes ago, we were in a mall with upbeat music and bright lights. Inside the museum, it was comparatively dim, either unheated or not heated at all, depending on the room. Old Soviet music played over the speakers.Figuring out where to begin was a challenge. The museum claims to have over 50 cars in its collection, but I'm confident that the actual number is in the three-digit range. Thankfully, the cars are neatly arranged in little islands. Polski-Fiat models are grouped together, pre-Volkswagen Škoda models have their own displays, and there is an entire section dedicated to the Lada brand. The ZAZ Zaporozhets even has its own nook.

The Car Collections

It's not just about cars; the museum also features motorcycles, mopeds, model cars, and thousands of Soviet-era objects such as gaming consoles, cigarette packs, televisions, and typewriters. If it's old and Soviet, it's on display here.The highlights are truly numerous. What's fascinating is that none of the cars on display were particularly rare when they were new. For example, a Lada Niva (which you can still buy new today!), a Škoda 1000 MB, or a Trabant 600 are not special. Most of these cars were designed at the request of central planners or by state-owned firms for people with limited shopping options. No one at Wartburg cared whether you liked the 2-stroke fumes of the 353 because getting one took so long that simply having a new car to carry your family was a cause for celebration. These cars were mass-produced with indifference and mass-destroyed with the same lack of concern, which makes the museum so intriguing. Even in rural Bulgaria or deep in Slovakia, clean ex-Soviet cars are hard to come by.Where else can you find a Zaztava GT55 in better condition than when it was new? While air-cooled Porsche 911s and Ford Mustangs are common at cars-and-coffee-style events, if you want to see a perfect example of every ZAZ model built, neatly arranged to show the evolution of this little rear-engined two-door, this is the place. There are a few rarities, like a black GAZ-13 Chaika limousine (which, unfortunately, was once the car of choice for KGB agents), but 98% of the museum is a celebration of the acceptable, the tolerable, and the just-OK.

The Cultural Significance

Stepping into this mall-turned-museum gives us a unique glimpse into a bygone era. It's not just about the cars; it's about the history and culture they represent. These cars were an integral part of Soviet life and have now become a part of our collective memory. They remind us of a time when mass production was the norm and individuality took a backseat.By preserving these cars and other Soviet-era objects, the museum allows us to connect with a past that is often forgotten. It shows us how design, engineering, and manufacturing have evolved over the years and how these simple vehicles played a significant role in the lives of millions.In conclusion, my trip to Bulgaria was not what I expected. I flew there to spend time in a mall, but what I found was a treasure trove of history and culture. The Retro Museum in Varna is a must-visit for anyone interested in cars, Soviet history, or simply experiencing something different.